Butora Narsha (Orange) Review

SCARPA Instinct VS Stats

Edging
5/5
Smearing
1/5
Comfort
2/5
Toe
2/5
Heel
5/5
Durabilty
5/5
Butora Narsha
Pushing hard on that stiff toe - the orange goes nicely with the green headband (Silverman 5.13c)

What we like about the Butora Narsha

The Butora Narsha is an edging beast! Quite a bit stiffer than your average shoe. If you like other stiffer shoes than this might be for you. 

Edging Performance

The Neo Friction rubber is surprisingly sticky for how stiff the shoe it. Micro edges are no problem with this shoe. I personally keep this one around for those rare cases that my Scarpa Instinct don’t cut it (which doesn’t happen too often).

For sustained and steep sport climbing, the extra support of these shoes makes redpoint cruxes feel slightly less exhausting. If you end up getting these shoes and you find you keep slipping off edges its probably because you’re not used to the sensitivity. This will get better as the shoe breaks in and you get use to the new feeling.

Smearing Performance

Smearing is not the Butora Narsha’s forte. The stiff sole combined with the hard rubber makes for a smearing nightmare. That being said you can still get away with it.

If the smear is not the crux of the route you should be able to deal with the Narsha’s lack of smearing. Gym climbing also shouldn’t be much of an issue as smearing is usually not as critical.

Comfort (Post Break-in)

The stiffness of these shoes makes them rather uncomfortable. They keep your toes in the downturned position, regardless if you are standing, sitting, or climbing.

The Butora Narsha Orange are for wider feet and the Blue are for narrower feet. Typically the Orange will fit men better and Blue the same for women, although your mileage may vary.

Butora suggests you size UP one-half size in comparison to the Acros (their more popular shoe model). Getting the Narshas with some wiggle room may also add some comfort.

Heel and Toe

The toe hooking abilities of the shoe seem to be misleading. When looking at the shoe online, it appears to have rubber on the entire upper. However, it turns out only about half the upper has rubber on it, whereas, the rest is just some kind of vinyl cut out made to match the pattern of the rubber. Also, the stiffness of the shoe makes flex your toes back rather difficult. If you haven’t figured out yet I’m not a huge fan of the super stiff shoes…

The heel is quite the opposite. The 3D molded heel cup is one of the best heels I’ve ever tried. I find it to be very intuitive to use. The extra support of the shoe also makes sustained heel hooking easier and less painful.

Durability

The hard rubber combined with the overbuilt construction makes these shoes an absolute tank. You can expect these to last for years (or at least one).

One issue I ran into was a slight delamination on the heel. I think it was from a specific climb I was projecting and it fixed up pretty easily with some super glue.

Should you pick up a pair of Butora Narshas?

While these shoes aren’t great for every climb, they are really good for some. Probably shouldn’t be your only shoe, but adding it to the collection isn’t a bad idea. Also if you live in an area that is abundant with overhung crimp lines you might get more use out of these than I do.

I really hope everyone liked this review. Please leave a comment and let me know what you think. Hearing from you guys makes all the time it takes to write these posts worth it!

If you want to buy this shoe consider ordering it through the following link. I will receive a small commission of the sale which helps me get my hands on more gear to make more reviews. 

Bryan’s Bomber Beta Shoe Fund aka Amazon Link for Butora Narsha 

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