No Edge, No Problem - La Sportiva Futura Hits the Mark!
I have to say the La Sportiva Futura Climbing Shoe has really surprised me. I found myself in Flagstaff Arizona climbing at the notorious pocketed roofs of Priest Draw and my Instincts weren’t cutting it! The shallow limestone pockets required a good smearing shoe, which is typically my Maverinks, but slippers and roofs don’t mix well. The Futura is essentially the Maverink with the Solutions Closure system. This lets the shoe combine a great toe with a secure heel.
The Vibram XS Grip 2 rubber is not designed to be the best at edging. The rubber is softer and therefore stickier but can deform under pressure. If you’re trying to get on the granite micro edges the Futura will leave some things to be desired, however, if the edges are moderately sized or sloping and polished the no edge will work well.
For edging performance I would not suggest exclusively using the Futura, but it might come it handy for certain situations.
Surprising no one the No Edge technology from La Sportiva makes arguably the best smearing shoes on the market. Combined with the Vibram Grip 2 rubber friction will never be a problem.
The No Edge allows you to get more rubber contacting the rock in a more natural and powerful angle. This allows for maximal force normal to the surface and therefore maximal friction (Newtonian Physics at it finest)!
Comfort (Post Break-in)
These shoes are exceptionally comfortable. They are made with the same Last as the Miuras, Solutions, Skwamas, and many other popular Sportiva shoes. The Futura is unlined so expect a bit of stretch.
I have a size 42 and found them to be very comfortable upon first wear. I will probably downsize my next pair to a 41 for a more snug fit.
If you are trying to figure out your size please watch my video on SizeSquirrel https://youtu.be/nZ8sRpslDVA
Heel and Toe
At this point I cannot complain about the heelhooking or toehooking capabilities of this shoe. I still prefer the Instinct for these techniques, but the Futura comes in a close second.
The heel is the same as other classic Sportiva models. It’s nothing fancy, but it works. It has a little less volume than the Instinct heel so it may fit your foot better.
Toe hooking is also pretty standard on the La Sportiva Futura. It will be good for 99% of toehooks you will find in the wild. A bonus of this toe rubber is that it’s connected the sole so if you get a resole you’ll automatically get a fresh patch of toe rubber!
There doesn’t seem to be any glaring issues with the durability of the Futura. The Grip 2 rubber is less durable than the Edge rubber by a marginal amount. I wouldn’t let this affect your decision to get the shoes or not.
One potential wear point is the strap on the Fast Lacing System. Time will tell on this and I will report back if I have a failure.
So Should You Get a Pair of La Sportiva Futura’s?
If you’re scared of the No Edge don’t be. It takes about 3-4 sessions to get used to and I haven’t found any issues going back a forth between classic and No Edge shoes.
The shoe is comfortable and performs at an extremely high level. I wouldn’t make it your exclusive shoe right off the bat but it will complement any other classic shoes quite nicely.
I really hope everyone liked this review. Please leave a comment and let me know what you think. Hearing from you guys makes all the time it takes to write these posts worth it!
If you want to buy this shoe consider ordering it through the following link. I will receive a small commission of the sale which helps me get my hands on more gear to make more reviews.