Is Any Climbing Shoe More Classic Than the Miura?
Full disclaimer, I personally don’t wear Miuras. My brother Jon has worn these shoes almost exclusively since he started climbing and most of this information comes from him. We talk about climbing for multiple hours a week. He climbs hard and is well versed in the technical aspect of climbing shoes. Watch the youtube review at the top of this page to hear his words exactly.
The 4mm Vibram XS Edge rubber is one of the best edging performance soles on the market. The Miura does not have an aggressive downturn so it is more ideal in vertical or slightly overhanging scenarios. The edging capabilities of these shoes diminish quickly as you head towards roof level steepness.
As with any shoe, the more worn the edge becomes will affect the edging performance. We found that the Miura held up better than most shoes but it was worth noting.
Out of the box these aren’t particularly good at smearing. As they break in they will actually become better and better at smearing. This is inversely proportional to the edging performance.
Comfort (Post Break-in)
The La Sportiva Miura is a very comfortable shoe. It can be sized differently for various use cases. If you want performance and precise size down. If you want all-day comfort for long pitches size up.
The leather upper allows this shoe to break in and mold to your foot. Give it a few session and it will fit like a glove!
No surprises here. The toehooking capabilities of this shoe are very limited. We suggest using another shoe when forced to use a toehook.
These are a good option Scarpa Instinct
The heel on the Miuras is an absolute beast! There is no shortage of rubber. It lacks some sensitivity so if you are used to wearing really soft shoes you might find the Miura a bit awkward at first.
The lacing system actually allows you a lot of control over the tension of the shoe. This makes it easy to get the shoe super snug so that heel won’t budge.
The Miura can last you for seasons and seasons worth of climbing. They are built like a tank with good materials. They take a resole well (Jon resoled his first pair 4 times).
The thick rubber and leather make the Miura one of the toughest climbing shoes of all time. The number of pitches you can get out of one pair will exceed most other shoes on the market today.
So is the La Sportiva Miura the Best Climbing Shoe Ever?
The Miura is not my first choice for a climbing shoe. That being said, many extremely successful climbers have relied on the Miuras for the past 20 years to send some of their hardest projects. They aren’t littered with modern technology and frills, but they are good at what they are designed to do. You won’t be disappointed if you decide to jump on the Miura train. ALL ABOARD!!!
I really hope everyone liked this review. Please leave a comment and let me know what you think. Hearing from you guys makes all the time it takes to write these posts worth it!
If you want to buy this shoe consider ordering it through the following link. I will receive a small commission of the sale which helps me get my hands on more gear to make more reviews.